Dobson’s Mussel Bisque en Croûte
It’s been on Dobson’s menu since day one — their version of classic Maxim’s Billi Bi mussel bisque — decadent, creamy seafood soup crowned with baked puff pastry, served piping hot in a lion’s head tureen. And to top it off? Your server will deftly poke a hole in the crown and pour in a shot of sherry.
I shared this recipe from a 1991 newspaper with mi tocayo, and longtime Dobson’s chef, Martín San Román. “So take a look at this, Chef. If you care to tell me, how close is this bisque to yours?”
He eyed the recipe for a moment, and with a piercing gaze and a wry smile he replied, “about eighty percent.” I thanked him. With a laugh and no follow-up questions, I dropped the subject.
So if you have some extra pounds of lobster and mussels laying around, try this out. Or better yet, head on over to Dobson’s, sit at the bar and order a bowl. Best with their steaming hot fresh bread and a glass of your favorite vin. It’s delicious!
Cheers, Martin Lindsay
Ingredients
8 ounces unsalted butter
2 medium shallots, peeled and minced (about 1/2 cup)
2 lobster tails, removed from shells, cut up into cubes (reserve shells)
4-5 cups shrimp shells (preferably un-cooked; ask your fish market to reserve these for you)
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
2 cups fish stock
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
2 pounds mussels, steamed, shucked, and chopped
7 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups milk
2 1/4 cups heavy cream or half-and-half
4 tablespoons dry sherry, or to taste
salt and fresh-ground white pepper
For the Puff Pastry Crowns
puff pastry dough, rolled out 1/4 inch thick, 10 by 20 inches, cut into eight 5-by-5inch squares, dusted with flour and refrigerated
1 egg, lightly beaten
2-3 teaspoons heavy cream
dry sherry, to present
Make the Bisque
Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a 3-quart saucepan. Add shallots and shells from shrimp and lobster. Cook over medium heat until shells turn bright pink, about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally and add a bit more butter if necessary.
After shells change color, add wine, fish stock, tomato paste, thyme, salt and pepper. Simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Strain stock into bowl. Let any residue settle to bottom of bowl. Discard shells.
Rinse out saucepan and return strained stock, but not residue, to saucepan. Bring this to slow boil. Add lobster meat and simmer gently for two minutes, then remove lobster with slotted spoon to the work bowl of a food processor. Run processor until lobster is ground medium-fine but not pureed.
Set stock, chopped mussels and ground lobster aside.
In a clean saucepan, melt remaining butter. Add flour and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk. When mixture thickens, whisk in heavy cream or half-and-half.
When mixture is very thick, after about 3 minutes, whisk in stock. Add mussels and lobster and stir.
Add sherry, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
To Serve
Ladle bisque into individual oven proof bowls. Lightly score pastry squares with a sharp knife. Lightly beat egg with cream. Brush scored pastry with egg-cream mixture. Brush underside first, then place pastry on bowl. Press sides tightly to seal, then brush pastry top with egg-cream mixture. Repeat with remaining bowls.
Bake in 400-degree oven until golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Serve immediately. Poke a hole in each of the pastry crowns and pour in some dry sherry. Enjoy!
